Sumur and Tegar

Sumur and Tegar (previously known as Kyager or tiger village) are the two crown jewels of Nubra.

sumur - tegar

A somewhat spread-out village, sprinkled with charming little houses, the main attraction in Sumur is the Samstanling Gompa which strategically stands above the village, at the foot of barren mountains. Built in the 1840s, it was raised by Lama Tsultin Nyima. It is one of the oldest monasteries in the valley, housing about a hundred monks, presided over by a Rinpoche. It has two du-khangs, both filled with marvelous statues and murals. Even though it has been considerably modernized, it still preserves a surreal atmosphere. Nearby one can also spot the crumbling Zamskhang (palace), which is now being restored. Often described as a ‘palace’ but actually a local governor’s home, it is certainly worth visiting. Going up the valley, one can pause at Terisha Tso, a tarn completely hidden in a bowl of jagged ridges. It has a tiny shrine which is a gorgeous spot for sight-seeing. Nearby lies Panamik, known for its considerably clean hot-water springs. However, the actual attraction further up is the ancient Ensa Gompa. Located amidst a dense tuft of dwarfed willows, it is an excellent and undiscovered spot for idling about.Both Sumur and Tegar are villages in Nubra Valley.

While, Tegar is a quiet, little village with about 120 houses, close to the banks of the Nubra. A visit to the Zimkhang gompa, the old palace of Tegar’s erstwhile chieftains, now in ruins, is a must. The traditional royal kitchen inside it has been preserved as a museum and gives an actual insight into how the household might have been, with people sitting next to warm fires and talking for hours, invoking a weird sense of nostalgia for the unknown. Near the Zimkhang is the Tegar Maney Khang, a white village shrine, which furthers adds to the overall picture of an ideal village life. The small Yarub Tso Lake is a short trek from here. Legend says that a pure-hearted person can see an image of Guru Rinpoche in the lake, or one can simply sit and enjoy the view, especially the beautiful peaks reflected in the clear water. Both Sumur and Tegar are villages in Nubra Valley.

 

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